Important conclusion from 3 mths away:

The 6 P’s of massage measurement:

Psychological benefit; Physical benefit; Pain; Pleasure; Pennies (value for money); Peculiarity (novelty value)

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Seattle-ites

I think I mentioned i met a very nice bunch of Seattle artists in Oaxaca and went to their gallery exhibition. A lovely evening was had by all… and thanks so much to Deborah Caplow, who organised their trip but also invited me along to the evening opening, and who knows a thing or two about art and mexican-ness. Her picks of the trip are here.

Going dark-ish

First post for a few days, and tomorrow probably going on a 5 day trip into the jungle. Apparently they don’t have any wifi there (yet – someone in brazil was developing self-sustaining solar-powered wifi pods which you can put on the top of trees and they daisy chain to each other using mesh tech).

Yesterday got into San Cristobal de las Casas at 0830 and spent the day mooching. Actually, spent the morning wandering around, talking to a local guide/tour company who offers me a range of trips, all touristy and says ‘unfortunately everyone wants to do something off the beaten track. but off the beaten track causes certain security and social issues’ (i paraphrase). In other words, don’t go hill walking on your own, and many of the local villages will take umbrage to tourists. so, had a snooze and spent the afternoon wondering what the hell i was doing in this cold, damp, one-pony town where there was nothing to see and little to do. Also wishing i was better at spanish. But then it all changes round so fast… a walk to the local Ecotourism Explora centre and suddenly there’s an interesting guided trek to do – pricey but good. On the way back I find Koniki, a funky little Salon de Te, record shop, cafe and independent cinema. with wifi. and i get chatting to Don (dallas) and his gf Caitlin (Pennsylvania) who are medics up on a break from their clinic in the middle of nowhere in El Salvador. Cue discussion of presidents, hope, travel, empires, central american poverty and revolution. Oh, and immigration/emigration. Fact: whereas an estimated 20-25m mexicans live in the US (a population of around 100m in MX itself), a whopping one third of the population of El Salvador lives in the US. It’s a country of 8m and another 2.5 live in the states. Very pleasant people.

Back to the hotel, in much better mood and with a plan for today. Early bed with lots of blankets (SC is at 2100m and the clouds came in yesterday afternoon so temperature is a modest 10degrees according to the ayersometer).

So, am currently in net cafe on a machine that has got 29 viruses and a trojan, but with quick access – and will spend the next hour researching flights from Guatemala to Santiago, and from Honduras to Santiago. The diving’s much better and cheaper in Honduras they say – and although the blue hole of Belize attracts me, not as much as trying out Honduras.

Expected rest of itinerary looking like: a week or so travelling to Bonampak, Yaxchilan, Palenque and then over into Guatemala to Flores and Tikal. Then, from there, it’s either over to Belize and head to the coast for diving and back to Antigua, Guatemala City and fly out to Santiago, or Tikal down to Antigua then fly to Honduras for some diving and from there on to Santiago. Unless, of course, i decide that Cuba is just too attractive. Decisions, decisions.

Either way, likely to be online a bit less, so ttfn.

los gingeros extinctos!

Today I had an amazing massage and sauna – which included a late middle-aged lady called Ana beating me with some wet, hot herbs and a lot of heat in the world´s smallest sauna with a lot of rose water – so my holiday must finally have begun.

However, it was slightly disconcerting that the lady booking my massage/sauna asked me

“where do you come from”,

“london” says I,

“oh, well i thought it might be ireland or scotland with your red hair”,

“well, I have some irish family” [dad, i know that´s irrlevant, but its the easiest way to respond]

“I see. Well I was reading an article the other day about how, in 5 years people with red hair will only be 5% of the population – that you are becoming extinct. ”

You can imagine my mouth dropped open on two fronts: firstly, the use of extinct, secondly, that the issue of red head recessive genes should have stretched so far round the world. And finally, of course, I think she was being very generous, bearing in mind the number of chinese and indian gingers.

On Mexican women

ok, so i haven´t seen all of them – but this should give you a taste. Miss Oaxaca 2009 competition is currently looking for entrants. The height qualification is 168cm. That´s about 5ft 7in. And that will thin the field considerably. Of course, height isn´t everything, i´m sure there are some very pretty oaxacan ladies – i just haven´t seen them yet. and they´re all munchkins. if i see one, i will politely ask to have my picture with them and post it.

Start spreading the news, I´m leaving today…

Leaving Mexico City, that is. Heading to Oaxaca in the south of the country. Just booking a place to stay. Lovely dinner with Aran of Inside Mexico last night in the Lamm Restaurant. Good way to end.

Went to the the shrine/cathedral of the Virgin of Guadalupe and the pyramids yesterday – impressive but over-touristyfied – then, purely by coincidence, noticed that Alien v Predator which was on tv was all based inside an aztec pyramid. how weird.

Long bus journey this afternoon – should get down to Oaxaca about 8pm.

Pictures: check the Flickr feed. I left my camera charger in london so i´m using the iphone instead and uploading to flickr rather than this blog.

Spanish level: 0.1

48 hours – in Mexico City

One lovely long lunch. One museum. One Cathedral. One tallest-tower. One tail – lost him, I am a londoner after all. Two gardens. Several enchiladas. Two guides, one excellent, one ok and good with the hustle.

Still no spanish.

Mexico City / NZ

Mexico:

• Hotel booked: Hotel Casa de la Condesa as recommended by Aran, who’s being wonderful. Knows everything, which isn’t that much of a surprise as he’s the man behind http://www.insidemex.com

NZ:

• Doubtful Sound 3 day boat trip also booked. Now looking into Abel Tasman or the Routeburn treks…
• Christmas with Fi’s friends Hannah and Steve. They’re golfers. goody.